by Brooke Karli

Benjamin Franklin once said, “Lighthouses are more helpful than churches.”

Point Fermin Lighthouse (photo by John Mattera)

Sailors visiting the Los Angeles Harbor between 1874 and 1941 would have agreed, as San Pedro’s Point Fermin Lighthouse safely guided them to their destination. The Stick Style Victorian lighthouse, designed by Paul J. Pelz and built in 1874 by the federal government, housed a 4th Order Fresnel lens until the coast was darkened in 1941 following the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Point Fermin Lighthouse was one of six lighthouses designed with gabled roofs, horizontal siding, decorative cross beams and hand-carved porch railings. Three of those six are still standing – East Brother in San Francisco Bay, Hereford Light in New Jersey, and of course, Point Fermin.

In addition to its unique architecture, the lighthouse also has a rich history – a history that includes the numerous families who resided there, the many transformations that occurred there, and the continual preservation the Point Fermin Lighthouse Society upholds.

The Keepers

Beyond the lighthouse itself, the Society takes great pride in those who maintained it – the lighthouse keepers. Point Fermin’s keepers were employed by the federal government and were responsible for the general upkeep and function of the lighthouse. The lighthouse’s first keepers were Mary and Ella Smith, who served at Ediz Hook Lighthouse in Port Angeles, Washington before traveling south.

A rare view from the top of the Point Fermin Lighthouse. (photo by John Mattera)

Eight years later, in 1882, the reigns were given to Captain George Shaw, whose daughter was the first to be born at the lighthouse. Shaw was also the first keeper to wear the U.S. Lighthouse Service uniform, a requirement of all male keepers to wear as of 1884. Shaw retired in 1904 and his position was filled by Irby Engels.

Engels remained the keeper until 1917, when William and Martha Austin, along with their seven children, took residence at the lighthouse. While there, the Austin’s welcomed their eighth child. Martha McKinzie, the Society’s current president, is the granddaughter of William and Martha Austin and the niece of Thelma and Juanita Austin, the last of the lighthouse keepers.

“Walking through the lighthouse is like walking through my family’s history,” McKinzie expressed. “I know my uncle was born in the room the lens is currently displayed in, and I know the window and balcony my aunts crawled out of and down to sneak off with dates.”

Members of the Point Fermin Lighthouse Society (top to bottom): Martha McKinzie, Tom Budar, Julian Jimenez, Gloria Guerrero, Lisa Jimenez and Diane Bertelsen. Not pictured: Joe McKinzie, Bonnie Winters. (photo by Brooke Karli)

The Society

In 1927, after the Austin’s 10-year residency, the City of Los Angeles managed the lighthouse as part of the newly developed park, Point Fermin Park. The lighthouse was then occupied by the U.S. Navy during WWII, a time when the light was extinguished and removed and a square room took its place, an area often referred to as the “chicken coop.” The lighthouse was given back to the City of L.A. at the end of the war to be used as a residence for park maintenance employees. Unfortunately, the lighthouse would never light the coast again.

Years later, in 1972, citizens Bill Olesen and John Olguin raised funds to restore the lighthouse in celebration of its 100th birthday in 1974. It was their efforts that placed the lighthouse on the National Register of Historic Places and it was at this time that the Point Fermin Lighthouse Society was established.

With funds and assistance from the City of L.A., Port of Los Angeles and State of California, the Society was able to restore the lighthouse in 2002 and on November 1, 2003, the lighthouse opened its doors to the public under the management of the Department of Recreation and Parks for the City of Los Angeles.

“Many of the lighthouse keepers were encouraged to give the public access to the lighthouse, but in 2003, the lighthouse became completely available to the public,” says McKinzie. “So we work to preserve the lighthouse, as well as educate those who visit through exhibits and public programs.”

The original 4th Order Fresnel lens on display inside the lighthouse. (photo by John Mattera)

The Society joined as a chapter of the U.S. Lighthouse Society in 1998 and currently has more than 350 members, many of which volunteer their time to help run the gift store, conduct tours, assist with landscape and furnish the lighthouse.

“We have a curator and furnishing committee that looks for period pieces to reflect the different times of the lighthouse,” McKinzie explained. “Right now, we’re looking for a wood-burning stove to put in the kitchen.”

Many of the pieces seen in the lighthouse have been purchased throughout the years and seeing as the Society doesn’t receive any funding and admission to the lighthouse is free, money for the lighthouse is accrued through public and private donations, gift shop purchases, and fundraisers hosted throughout the year.

“Our gift shop is our biggest money maker – we sell everything from T-shirts and jewelry, to models and books, to nails from the original structure,” says McKinzie.

The Society is currently getting ready to celebrate Point Fermin Lighthouse’s 134th birthday on December 15, a yearly tradition of getting together at sunset (when the lighthouse was first lit on Dec. 15, 1874) and sharing stories and experiences at the lighthouse.

The Point Fermin Lighthouse, decorated for the holiday season. (photo by John Mattera)

“It’s just a great time for us to gather around and celebrate the lighthouse with others,” shares McKinzie. “The lighthouse represents something different for the each of us but we all can’t help but fall in love with it every time.” SPM

Point Fermin Lighthouse is located in Point Fermin Park at 807 W. Paseo Del Mar, San Pedro, CA 90731. For information, call (310) 241-0684 or visit www.pointferminlighthouse.org. Hours: Tuesday through Sunday from 1 to 4 p.m., with guided tours available at 1, 2, and 3 p.m.

For more information on the U.S. Lighthouse Society, visit www.uslhs.org.